Lijiang, China

Lijiang is a scenic little town of stone buildings, cobblestone streets, canals, and pavilions with Jade Dragon Snow Mountain for a backdrop. I didn't originally plan to come here but I heard so many good things that I had to come see it myself. The Chinese have managed to make a tourist attraction out of the minority people of the area, the Naxi and the Old Town is chalked full of souvenir shops, guesthouses, and restaurants. But for all that, it is a pretty cool place with plenty to see and do for a few days, not to mention being a great place from which I could hike Tiger Leaping Gorge. I got in late and once I arrived at my hostel, I was fed a nine-dish communal dinner home cooked, which was some of the best food I've had on the trip in addition to being a great introduction to real Chinese cuisine. The next day I walked around the Old Town and explored the Mu Family Mansion (Mushi Tusifu), a small palace of sorts that used to house the local governors of the region.


Behind it but in the same complex is Lion Hill (Shizi Shan) and a pagoda atop it, Wangu Tower, which gives amazing panoramic views of Lijiang, though not much of the mountain was visible that day unfortunately.

I headed up to Black Dragon Pool Park for views of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and although it rained the whole time I was there, the pass is good for multiple entries and when I returned a few days later, the view was postcard perfect.

I tried the yak jerky there, which was an interesting little snack and the local specialty, baba, a lightly fried flatbread with a little sweet or salty filling in it, which was really good. Though it is a bit out of the way, considering my other destinations, Lijiang was well worth going to for its "ancient Chinese" atmosphere and picturesque Old Town.

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Details:
From The Hump hostel in Kunming, I took a taxi to the bus station ($1/8¥) and bought my ticket to Lijiang ($28/190¥), departing at 10:00. Be careful of anyone trying to ask you where you are going and walking up to the counter with you, they are not being helpful, the bus service will charge you a commission of anywhere from $.50/4¥ to $2/15¥ that will go to the pest. There seems to be no advantage to using them, as most of the ticket people know enough English to get you what you want. The bus from Kunming to Lijiang takes about 10 hours. Make sure you get the more expensive bus service as you pay only a few more dollars for a MUCH more comfortable ride. When arriving at Lijiang, there are 4 bus stations and apparently no way to predict which one you will be dropped off at. You could probably get a taxi to take you where you need to go, but easier is to arrange for your hostel to pick you up. If staying at Mama Naxi's, which I would strongly recommend for anyone on a budget, just give Mama a call and give the phone to a Chinese person to have them tell her which bus station you are at, then she'll have someone come get you shortly. Dorms at Mama Naxi's are great, the prices on everything very reasonable, the communal dinners are amazing ($2/¥15), and they will arrange pretty much everything you need ($2.50-3.50/¥15-25 for dorms). The Mu Family Mansion (Mushi Tusifu) is at the Southwestern end of Old Town ($6/¥45 or $3/¥22.5 with student card), follow the map signs throughout Old Town. Lion Hill (Shizi Shan) is at the back of the Mu complex, but you must pay to go further ($2/¥15). The entrance fee to Black Dragon Pool Park is steep, but you do get multiple entries if the view isn't there ($12/¥80).