Meteora, Greece

Meteora is a collection of monasteries in Northern Greece that sit at the top of or carved into large, sheer rock formations. While there were once 22, now 7 remain and are connected by a series of roads and footpaths. There really isn't another sight like it and they seem to come straight out of a fairytale. The first, called Grand Meteora, is probably the largest monastery, though not as cool from a distance as most of the others. Most of its rooms have been converted to various types of museums, though a church does remain.


The second monastery I visited is called Varlaam, a spectacular little monastery situated on a single rock pinnacle, as most are. The inside looked similar but smaller, with the church walls painted top to bottom with depictions of biblical scenes. Both were quite different from the Baroque and Renaissance architecture I had seen on my previous trip to Europe.

The last place for the day was the Holy Trinity nunnery, the only one in the area. It looks awesome from afar, but doesn't amount to much once inside. The views from the road in between them are spectacular, with both the rocks and several monasteries in sight (below is a poor excuse for a panoramic photo, maybe I'll fix it up when I get home).

The previous day, after arriving in the afternoon, I did a quick little visit to St. Steven's Monastery, just up the road from the nunnery; it was closed when I got there but the views of the town below and the monastery itself.

The town of Kalambaka served as my base for exploring the monasteries. It's a charming little place without too much of a tourist influence despite its proximity to one of the major tourist sites in Greece. Bakeries, tavernas, souvlaki places, and little plazas fill the main streets of the town, all with the backdrop of the massive rocks abruptly rising out of the ground. Many men, perhaps they are Greek Orthodox priests or monks, walk around in black robes and wear cylindrical black hats, adding a little flavor to the experience of the town as well.
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Details:
From Athens, several buses leave daily for Kalambaka, the largest of the towns near the monasteries, but you must change buses at Trikala (same ticket though, $35/25€). The other main starting point is Kastriki, both are very close to different parts of the usual path of visit to the monasteries, though Kalambaka has better public transport and more budget options. When you get in, the bus will drop you off steps away from the tourist information on a little square on the main road (not the central square). Pop in here for a map of accommodation and the monasteries and whatever other information you may need. Avoid Room Totis and its sister establishment a few blocks up the road from the tourist office, the owner is dodgy and will change prices and charge extra for nothing after giving you a cheap-sounding deal. If you refuse he will even follow you on his motorbike. Better is the area to the back of town, near the path up to Meteora. There are three places here: Also's Guesthouse, Elena Guesthouse, and Koka Roka Rooms. While they are expensive ($35-49/25-35€ per person for singles), they are on par with the cheapest in the area and you will get your money's worth. I stayed at Also's. The owner is welcoming and he has free Internet and wifi, as well as great facilities. Without breakfast and AC (which are normally included), he gave me a single for $35/25€, the best deal I could find. The monasteries take about half a day to see. If you don't have money oozing out your ears, your best bet is to take one of the buses that leave from Kalambaka at 9:00 and 13:00 ($2/1.40€) to Grand Meteora, the Westernmost of the monasteries. Then, walk back to Kalambaka, stopping at monasteries along the way, then taking the steep cobblestone path down to the back of town. They charge $3/2€ for entrance to each monastery. Grand Meteora is by far the best inside of the 3 that I went in, but Varlaam had some great views and enough to feel you got what you paid for. Don't bother going inside the Holy Trinity nunnery, it is boring and plain, with no views that you can't get from adjacent rock ledges. All of the monasteries close one day a week (some two in the winter) but are normally open around 8:00-17:00, check before you go for exact details. If you have plenty of time and really like morning and afternoon pictures, I would go twice, once in the morning and once in the afternoon, perhaps varying the route a little. There are other hikes in the area and there is a 9th c. Byzantine Church in the back of town ($2.50/1.50€).